Uruguay - Feeding the British troops through two world wars

31 Dec 2011

In 1840 concentrated meat extract was invented in London, by a German chemist named Justis von Liebig.

However as it required 30 kilos of beef to make one kilo of extract, with the price of beef in Europe it was a non starter.

In Uruguay at the time, a young railway engineer also with German origins called George Christian Giebert, read about the work of Liebig and wrote to him.

Giebert was given the license to produce the beef extract at Fray Bentos, on the banks of the River Plate in Uruguay.

Breeders & Packers is the latest incorporation to Uruguay’s meat industry     

BPU Uruguay “the  Mecca   ” of meat plants

new Britsh investment in the beef industry.

 

A company was set up in London in 1865 named the Liebeg Extract of Meat Company, with a share issue of 150,000 pounds to build a purpose designed meat plant..

Prior to this, the cattle in Argentina and Uruguay were slaughtered only for the skins, as there was no refrigeration to transport the beef.

From 800 kilos per month initially, the company was producing 500 tons a month by 1878.

The meat was being thrown out for the making of Tallow until in 1878 the first corned beef was produced. This corned beef which later became known world wide as Fray Bentos Corned Beef.

The staff at each plant was over 5,000 killing 1200 cattle a day on the ground, in teams of 5 men, on a kill floor the size of two football fields.

Each team has to dress 60 cattle a day, split them with a clever and clean up their area when finished.

The beef extract was sold in glass bottles in the same manner as Bovril today, until 1908 when the first Oxo cubes were manufactured.

The Oxo cube was so successful, they sponsored the 1908 Olympic Games in London, with all the athletes given Oxo drinks for energy. The very first sponsored Olympic Games.

The Liebig Extract company was killing 6,000 cattle per week, in Fray Bentos and another 6,000 cattle per week in Entre Rios Argentina, all for Oxo and corned beef..

The beef extract company was taken over the Lord Vestey, beef empire in 1924.

In 1968 the company was again taken over by Brooke Bond Tea company.

With the sale of the company, came over 2-3 million hectares of farm land and herds of cattle in Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, Rhodesia, Kenya and South Africa.

Unilever took over the company in 1984, followed by Campbells Soup, who sold the UK operation to Premier Food in 2006

The Oxo brand is still produced in South Africa today by the Mars Group.

The name Oxo has been used for children’s games ( similar to naught’s and crosses) and even a racehorse that won the English Grand National.

There was an Oxo family on television every night in England, for nearly 40 years until 1999 suggesting meat recipe’s utilizing the Oxo cube.

Most of all Oxo opened the doors of the South American beef industry, to the rest of the world.

A little cube in a red box captivated the interest of every major food company in the world, the previous owners of the brand is like a corporate who’s who.

 


 

Fray Bentos label
Fray Bentos: The town was once known as "Kitchen of the World"

After many years the small western Uruguayan town of Fray Bentos is once again exporting the product that gave it name recognition around the world: corned beef.

 

 

Initially manufactured for the working classes, the tinned cooked meat became a staple for many people in Britain and continental Europe.

 

"I was brought up on it. I remember eating corned beef until it came out of my ears," said Prince Charles during a visit to Uruguay in 1999.

 

Fray Bentos is the original location of the main factory of the German-British Liebig Extract of Meat Company.

 

Established in 1863, it produced meat extract, tinned beef and by-products.

Old advertisement
The factory exported its goods around the world

Renamed the Anglo Meatpacking plant in 1924, the factory fed generations of Europeans and allied troops during World War I and II.

 

Such was its importance as a food exporter that the town was once known as "The Kitchen of the World".

"Not only did our products fill European stomachs; they also got into European hearts and minds," said historian Rene Boretto, director of the Museum of the Industrial Revolution, which is on the site of the former abattoir.

 

"In World War I, soldiers would say 'Fray Bentos' to indicate that something was good, the same way we nowadays say OK, " Mr Boretto said.

 

Further proof of the product's impact, he said, was the fact that during that war, when there were only a few tanks, British soldiers named one of them "Fray Bentos" because inside it they felt like tinned meat.

 

Family history

Thirty years after the closure of the Anglo Meatpacking Plant, the Brazilian-owned Marfrig Group is producing corned beef in Fray Bentos once again and exporting it to Britain.

map

Exports to the United States were set to start at the end of October.

 

Julio Bonizzi, Marfrig's plant manager, said the company was already producing corned beef at its Brazilian plants but decided that Fray Bentos offered an inexpensive and simple way to expand production capacity.

 

"The opening of this plant has a double meaning for us," said Omar Lafluf, the local mayor.

"First, we are resuming production of a staple that made us world pioneers, and that gave global recognition to this town. Second, it provides an important source of jobs, employing more than 100 people."

 

Residents of this small Uruguayan town, which has a population of 23,000, are proud to have recovered the industry that put them on the world map and employed several generations of fraybentinos.

 

"I work in the labelling department, doing the same job my husband's grandmother did at the Anglo," said Leticia Martinez at Marfrig's plant.

The Anglo Meatpacking Plant
In its heyday, the Anglo factory employed several thousand people

Her husband, Marcelo Da Rocha, says that corned beef gave jobs to his whole family: he, his brothers, cousins, uncles and grandparents have all worked in meat processing.

 

Recalling his days at the Anglo, where he began work at age 14, Norberto Bordoli, now 84, said the factory attracted employees from afar.

 

"Workers came from almost 60 countries. My grandfather came from Italy to work here, and I worked at the plant until it closed."

 

The end of the WWII, coupled with both Europe's economic recovery and outdated equipment at the plant, led to the factory's closure in 1979, explains historian Rene Boretto

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Minus the moo

Although the opening of the new plant is good news for the town, it is far smaller than its predecessor, the Anglo.

 

In its heyday in the 1940s, 5,000 people worked in the five-storey building.

More than 200 types of tinned and processed food were produced, not only meat by-products but also vegetables, sweets and jams.

 

Workers at the processing factory in Fray Bentos
The new plant's Brazilian owners think Fray Bentos is an ideal location

"Every day, 1,600 cows, 6,400 lambs and hundreds of pigs and turkeys were slaughtered. The smell was very intense in the whole city," recalls Mr Bordoli.

 

According to Mr Boretto, "The only part of the cow that went to waste was the moo."

 

"Before the English arrived we only slaughtered the cow for its hide, tongue and some cuts of meat," he said.

 

"Then we learned that there was a market for each by-product. France bought bile stones for the perfume industry. Thick ear hair made into brushes, there were unthinkable uses."

 

In today's Fray Bentos, the mood is one of hope. Some people are taking advantage of a job opportunity in an industry that left its mark on the town and, for many, it is the continuation of a long family tradition they do not want to lose. 

 

The President of Uruguay, Terry and his staff enjoying lunch in the BPU plant where Mr Johnson

has invested US$150 million.

 

 

 

 

 
Corned beef + Oxo tins - WW1

 

 
Corned beef + Oxo tins - WW1

 

 

 

 

My grandfather had these items on him when he came under attack in the trenches. (He survived the war.) The bullet holes can still be clearly seen on the Oxo tin. I do not have much by way of other information but the corned-beef tin has a date stamp of 4-15 on the base. Clearly this is not an object of immense historical significance but as a "cultural metaphor" for the life of the ordinary man in the trenches in WW1 and as a piece of family history it is highly poignant. 

Source: Argentine Beef Packers S.A.

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